I'm officially the worst reader in the history of mankind...
Thank you so much yet again gobang!
I'm really grateful for your thoughts and assistance 🙂👍
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Neues Benutzerkonto erstellenI'm officially the worst reader in the history of mankind...
Thank you so much yet again gobang!
I'm really grateful for your thoughts and assistance 🙂👍
Might be, but the Sync is completely different unit. I'm hoping you're correct though.
I'm guessing only Go4IT can tell us definitively 🙂
Isn't the MCA getting the info about reverse gear activated via CAN I/F?
Not that I know of but that would explain my issue. I haven't gotten a straight forward answer when I've asked earlier (not on this forum). Only guesses. Thanks for pointing this out👍
But how the MCA is getting the info about activated reverse gear on the kitchen table?
Supposedly the MCA unit should display the video input whenever this is present. Since there is no pin for on the unit to tell it to switch to reverse view like on all the Android aftermarket units for example.
Yeah, mine is something like that as well.
It's got a black (-), red (+), yellow(signal) and a white one that seems to be connected to ground, that you can cut to change video output. I've tried both with and without the white cable.
I hooked up the camera to another display I had laying around and that worked, just not sure why it isn't working in the MCA unit.
If you direct connect your Camera to the MCA you also must connect the Reverse light signal to the camera + . Then the camera should switch on when you shift in Reverse.
Most aftermarket camera's that I know had to be connected like this.
Sorry my english writing is not the best.
Yup, thanks for the info👍
I know I'm just trying it out on my kitchen table before starting the install in the car.
Why do you ask for the original CAM pinout? I assume that you connect your aftermarket cam direktly to the satnav Fakra?
I was going to try it on the bench but I soon realised that that wasn't possible. I read your other articles on the matter in the wiki.
I'm still trying to figure out why the aftermarket camera doesn't work when connected directly to the MCA unit. I'm thinking that the middle pin on the fakra connector is signal and the shielding is ground and shielding.
looking for that? https://mk4-wiki.denkdose.de/artikel/rueckf…am_pigtail_plug
Thank you so much!
I don't know why I have so much issues with finding things in the wiki, I'm usually good at that😅
The video-ADC in the MCA can handle both encodings, PAL and NTSC (and some more).
Thanks!
Strange, then it probably should work. I'll continue my search for a solution.
Edit:
Also if anyone has the pinout for the connector on the original reverse camera (the square connector), I would be very happy. Haven't found that yet.
I assume the camera has wrong video signal format: AHD (Analog HD),
Ford needs CVBS (NTSC).
Some camera models have the possibility to change the video signal format by cutting some extra cable loop.
Thanks for your reply!
According to specs it's CVBS (when cutting the extra cable) I've tried both with and without, no luck.
Good idea though👍
Edit:
Ah, crap. I think it's PAL. I guess that's why it isn't working then.
Edit2:
Or it might support both PAL and NTSC, I'm unsure...
Hi,
As always I'm sorry about writing in English instead of German. Not versed enough in your language.
In the trying to use another reverse camera with my MCA, but when camera is powered on it does not show the image on the MCA display.
I've tested the camera, it works. I got the camera with my Junsun android head unit (see image).
Could the camera be sending the wrong kind of signal? The fakra - rca connection is working correctly.
Does the MCA head unit require some other "trigger" to show the reverse camera image, except that the camera powers on and sends a video feed to the MCA? I thought it just displayed anything feeding into it when the camera is powered.
Big thanks for any help!
Thanks for such a detailed answer oldrebel !
I'm not sure I follow the last paragraph though.
Was your idea to buy an external amplifier for the sub and remove the subwoofer from Can-bus with Forscan( for example) so that the build in amplifier no longer sends signals to the sub?
On aftermarket units, Speaker Ground often is just vehicle ground. If it's a high end unit, Speaker ground is shared between all the outputs, but not the chassis. Just check with a continuity tester, on which side of the plug all outputs have the same potential.
Thanks!
Probably not a high end unit.
Any ideas on which cable to use for sub signal(+)?
Thanks so much for your replies!
It's the original sub from Ford with amplifier by the OBD2 connector. I should have been more clear sorry.
Oh I thought all 3 connectors were parts of the quadlock. I've found all the info on all pins but the only mention of sub in use is pin 10 on connector C.
I have loose rca connectors to solder on if needed. But I'm still unsure exactly which cable is the signal cable for the sub. I'm thinking I can use "speaker ground" for the outer part.
Hi, sorry about the English but my German is quite bad.
I need to put a RCA connector on the cables from the built in subwoofer (where the spare wheel should be) to be able to connect it to my replacement stereo(coming from MCA2)
Does anyone know how to do that?
In the guessing I need to use the "sub-" cable on the quadlock connector.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks.
I'm unsure if you get notifications from private messages. I wrote to you Go4IT, about some details sending you the MCA. ?
It looks a bit different from before, more white.
1. I honestly can't remember how the power button made the screen react before I removed the battery to reset. But after, I could turn it on but not off (the screen).
2. If you say so ?
3. Everything worked before the reset, but I'm unsure if the screen responded to touches. Don't think I tried. But AC was fine, Bluetooth fine, radio as well. Everything was controllable through Convers+.
I might have said this already but, with the new card in place the original AC controller worked as far as I know. I could set fan speed and max for heating the car. This didn't work with the old card before.
At one time I lost Convers+ completely, but it came back. Unsure if it had anything to do with the upgrade cd I put in.
The TP you highlighted is "JTAG GND". One of many possible GND positions on the board (they are mostly all connected to the same earth, just measure with your DMM). The chassis case may be decoupled from GND by some ohms, so this might distort the readings.
Ok, now that you know you have to deal with the old graphicsboard, let's see. One idea again is to power the unit up on the bench without the maybe faulty keyboard pcb.
I tried it yesterday when I tried with the new card. But I tried again just now just to be sure. I'm getting a white screen with some blueish vertical lines (very dim).
I'm not getting any connection between the ground point and chassi or JTAG ground. No numbers or indication of bad connection even.
Just that it's been said: If you want i can also help you with repair/sparepart. Even if transportation charges are high, it may be cheaper than "lessons learned charges" So before you buy something from a stranger, don't hesitate to ask me first.
That's a really good idea mate!
Is there anything else I can try by myself before "giving up" and sending it to you?
Thanks again for taking your time, I know you must get a lot of questions from a lot of people!
Alles anzeigenFirst of all, this will be a journey, not a quick trip, so prepare to spend a lot of time for this to fix. It's perfect to have an alternative meanwhile, as you will by adding a separate climate control unit. Hope you electronic skills are high and also your equipment. You should be familiar with SMD soldering/desoldering and should have a digital oscilloscope, measurement equipment and an adjustable power source.
To power the unit you just need to apply 12V (~1.8 - 2.0A) to the pins 12 (GND) and 15 (+) of the Quadlock, that's enough: https://mk4-wiki.denkdose.de/artikel/ audio_navigation/quadlock#supply
The "white" you see is due to the background illumination of the display. Normally the crystals inside the LCD screen are aligned to shade the light from it and/or form color filters to only pass color components of a specific amount. This way the pixels turns black/white or any color between. Such LCDs needs a lot of different voltage to work. They are derived from this converter.
You should always measure to GND:
The 5V you measure is the input power of the boost converter MC34063 (the chip in the middle of the red circle). It shows that the converter is getting the needed input power to work, good!
The "LCD+" should be the output voltage the converter produces. In my writings it was about +12V (which fits your measuring). The "LCD-" should produce negative voltage, -8.3V.
Check the rectifier diodes (BAV99, SOT-23 case) as they might reported (use a simple DMM for it):
Also check the caps at least measure resistance if not capacity. The should not have a resistance, if they have, they are melted.
Ok, so I went back and checked this again.
LCD+ is 12V
LCD is -9V
5V is correct.
The rectifier diodes are alright and capacitors don't have any resistance.
In other words, I can't find any issues with anything from this post.
Would really appreciate any other suggestions on how to proceed
Edit: But, the earth point isn't earth on mine. I need to measure against the metal cage to get voltage readings.
Edit 2:
This is ground though.